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Sauna Cleaners & Sealent
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Cedar Sauna Cleaner - 1 Litre
C$47.58
WHY CHOOSE NORTHERN LIGHTS?
100% Clear Western Red Cedar
Cedar has long been the premier sauna wood. Clear Cedar has no knots ensuring the longevity of our product products
Electric - Wood Fired - Infrared
The most heating choices to build your sauna. Choose from wood fired, infrared or our surgical stainless steel electric sauna heaters
Best Warranty
Our commitment to quality has been the conrner stone of our success. Our barrel saunas come complete with a full 5 year warranty.
Customer Support
We are Sauna Enthusiast first and foremost. Give us a call and let us help discuss all your sauna needs.
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Cedar in a working sauna goes through brutal cycles: 195°F dry heat, then a löyly burst of 40-60% humidity, then cool-down back to room temp, twice a week for decades. Without care, the wood eventually grays, sweat residue accumulates on benches, and pores in the wood load up with skin oil. The right cleaners and oils — sauna-specific, not generic — keep cedar looking and smelling new for 25 years. Wrong products (varnish, polyurethane, household degreasers) damage the wood and off-gas toxins at temperature.
Why sauna-specific products matter
Three things rule out most household cleaners and finishes in a working sauna. First, anything containing solvents (most household degreasers, mineral spirits, paint thinners) outgasses VOCs above 140°F — you're sitting in a sealed room breathing concentrated fumes. Second, polyurethane and varnish form a sealed film that traps moisture under it; cedar pores need to breathe. Third, perfumed soaps and fabric softeners leave residue that vaporizes at sauna temperature and stinks.
Sauna-rated products are formulated to either evaporate cleanly (cleaners) or penetrate the wood without sealing it (oils). Both are safe at 195°F and don't leave residue on rocks or in the air.
Bench oils and cedar treatments
Apply a sauna-rated paraffin or mineral oil to the bench tops once a year. It penetrates the wood pores, repels sweat and skin oil, and slows graying. You wipe a thin coat on with a rag, let it soak for an hour, wipe off the excess. The bench is usable again in 24 hours.
What NOT to use on benches: linseed oil (slow-drying, can become rancid), tung oil (good for furniture but the finish stiffens in heat), polyurethane (forms film, traps moisture, off-gases at high temp), food oils like olive or vegetable (they go rancid and smell terrible).
Wall cedar (not the benches) usually doesn't need oiling — it doesn't contact skin and the cedar's natural oils protect it from humidity alone. If the wall cedar starts graying after 5-10 years, a light wash with mild soap brings back most of the colour.
Cleaning between sessions
The Finnish standard is simple: wipe benches down with a clean cloth after the sauna cools (not when it's still hot — the cloth dries instantly and you spread sweat residue around). Once a month, wipe with a damp cloth and a tiny amount of mild soap, rinse with a wrung-out clean cloth.
Heavy cleaning (every 6-12 months): an oxygen-bleach-based cleaner (we stock sauna-rated versions) lifts deep sweat residue without bleaching the cedar. Avoid chlorine bleach — it damages cedar fibers and the smell lingers in the wood for weeks.
Sauna sealants (and when you actually need one)
Most working saunas don't need sealants. The exception: outdoor barrel saunas where the exterior is exposed to weather. We sell sauna-rated exterior sealers that go on the OUTSIDE of barrel staves only — they slow the silvering process and resist UV. Never apply sealer to the interior cedar of any sauna, including the door's interior face.
Outdoor exterior reseal schedule: light coat every 3-5 years on barrel saunas, every 5-7 years on outdoor cabin saunas with more roof protection.
Stove and rock maintenance
The heater itself usually needs only occasional brushing — sweep ash from wood-fired stoves, vacuum carbon dust from around electric heater elements. The rocks accumulate mineral deposits over time and eventually need replacement (see sauna hardware for replacement rocks).
If hard water is leaving white deposits on the heater and benches, consider filtering the water you use for löyly. A simple inline carbon filter on the bucket-fill tap cuts mineral deposit significantly over years.
Frequently asked questions
Should I seal or varnish the cedar in my sauna?
No. Sealants and varnishes form a film that traps humidity in the wood, off-gases at high temperatures, and prevents the cedar from breathing. The natural oils in cedar are sufficient protection — keep them topped up with sauna-rated bench oil annually, that's it.
How often should I oil the sauna benches?
Once a year for heavy use (2-3 sessions per week), every 18-24 months for occasional use. Signs you're overdue: benches looking dry/gray, sweat sitting on the surface rather than absorbing slightly, wood feeling rough rather than satin-smooth.
What if my sauna already has graying cedar — can I bring it back?
Yes, partially. Light surface graying: a fine sanding (220-grit) followed by sauna-rated bench oil restores most of the color. Deep graying: it's mostly cosmetic — function isn't affected. Some owners embrace the patina.
Can I use bleach to disinfect a sauna?
No. Chlorine bleach damages cedar fibers and the smell embeds in the wood. If you need to disinfect (very rarely needed if you wipe down regularly), use an oxygen-bleach cleaner formulated for cedar.
How do I get the cedar smell back if it's faded?
Light sanding of a small area (back of a bench, behind the heater wall) reactivates the wood's aromatic oils. The smell returns within a few sessions. A drop of cedar essential oil added to the löyly water also helps, but the wood-sanding fix is permanent.
